Pane Vino (323, Kentish Town Road) still dishes up understated, delicious meals. Trouble is, now it feels left behind with the rash of more fashionable new openings on the street – and it’s lighting and plain decor don’t really justify the high prices.

However, house special Linguine with Bottarga is delicate, un-fishy and distinctly moreish, with not a hint of the saltiness you might expect from grey mullet roe. Gnocchi tastes very freshly-made, whilst calamari fritti are melt-in-the-mouth perfection.

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